Daydreaming about how I’d build up a Mondraker RAZE for myself…
BikeCo.com provides riders access to spec swaps to dial in personality, performance and look.
So what on my photoshopped dream custom Mondraker RAZE is fashion and what is function?
Both on this blog and in my build goals I put Function First… Some things are that important to my bike’s personality and my trail enjoyment that I can make sacrifices in other areas to make sure I’ve got my favorite bits in key places. This list is prioritized from top to bottom.
Tires. I will admit where I’m spoiled and, well, I’d rather not ride a bike than ride it with tires I KNOW won’t work… It’s one thing to test something you have reasonable faith in – but stretching way out in the tire world is a good way to end up in the bushes on your ride. I ride Minion DHF or DHR II front options with EXO+ or EXO sidewalls. In the rear I tend to lean into the same tires mentioned above or possibly an Aggressor. EXO+ or EXO sidewalls and lately I’ve been running a CushCore XC to keep off the rims a bit more.
Magura Brakes. Insert your favorite brake brand here. I prefer the modulation and power that Magura offer. Riders looking for a bit more instant bite tend to gravitate to Shimano’s lineup. Both Magura and Shimano offer a models at a variety of price points.
In my case, I run MT7 brakes currently but I’ve run MT5 for years and years (same pair made it through like 5 bikes or something?). If budget is tight I’m leaning into the MT5s for sure or maybe the MT7s with a standard lever. Both the MT5 and MT7 have lever upgrades down the line.
FOX Float X Rear Shock. Being a heavier rider I like the idea of a more robust shock. Also, since I tend to ride a variety of terrain, but my average before or after work rip isn’t super burly I gravitate to bikes like the RAZE or Yeti SB130’s travel range. You can get a bit more punch out of the bike with the Float X instead of the inline DPS.
Saddle. If you have a saddle you know you like stick with what works! Ergon and SQ Labs are the favorites around here although a lot of riders have been true to WTB for decades and why change what works?
Bars / Grips. Like your saddle if you know what you like you should run it. I run 785mm carbon bars from Renthal or RaceFace in 35mm rise. I find the sweep on both of these bars creates a nice, confident feel. Depending on your bar width and weight you might shop stiffer or more compliant bars. If you’re cutting your bars way down remember you’re losing some leverage and going to make them stiffer. So, if you start with the 810mm DH bar of one of your heros it might turn into a teeth rattler by the time you’ve got it fit to you. Chat with the sales team for insight on which bar is right for you.
FUNCTION & FASHION
So I feel like this is kind of a grey area.
XX1 Chain. The last couple builds I have run GX drivetrains, but, I have upgraded to the XX1 chain with great results. If you keep the drivetrain relatively clean and lube it appropriately the SRAM Eagle systems provide amazing total mileage.
The SRAM XX1 Chain is also available in Black (my current go to on a blacked out bike), Gold, Copper, or AXS Rainbow. All of these chains perform the same but the little bit of color flare can really set off a build.
Which brings us to
It’s funny, I wear all black, nothing branded except for the occasional BikeCo hat or sweatshirt (or my Fight Like A Kid hat these days) but, when it comes to my bikes, motorcycles or cars I admit to being kinda vain! And why not – you should love looking at your bike. These Fashion bits are mainly vanity there are a variety of bits that can perform and hit a wide price point – but if you’ve got it in the budget why not go all in on looks too?
Putting together my interpretation of this dream Mondraker RAZE custom I wanted to compliment the frame’s colorway (which BTW, I really love even as someone who usually runs murdered out bikes).
I started the Fashion parts list with the XX1 Copper chain because I wanted to compliment the Kashima coated rear shock and fork.
FOX Factory Transfer Dropper. I also added a Factory dropper post for the same reason. Moving the Kashima accent color to all of the bike’s edges helps cohesively tie it in.
Magura MDR-P Rotors. While these are great rotors I tend to run the Magura HC options. But I loved the way the black insert looked (and made it easier to photoshop!)… The MDR-P has a greater heat capacity and is available in a 220mm option for riders who are really hard on their rotors.
Total Fashion change, but I pulled the forward facing “36” from the fork legs and I think the yellow graphics are much more balanced without it.
This one the guys at the shop will argue with me about – it really comes down to personal experience and preference…
SRAM AXS. Like I said, personal thing here. I run SRAM cable on my bikes. I like the simplicity. BUT, when I was messing about with the graphic removing the shift cable really does clean up the cockpit look! (Sorry I didn’t PS the rear derailleur in – I had a deadline on some stuff but I did remove the rear shift cable from the image!
What Would You Build?
Do you have your dream list of bits? How would you build your custom Mondraker RAZE?
Call 949.470.1099, email us, or use the website’s live chat to get answers on which bits are must have and which are “if they fit in the budget” specs based on your riding.
Learn More About My Dream Bits
Want to learn more about what we’ve mentioned? Check out the links to the products listed above: