Learn more about the Yeti SB130’s FOX Factory Float X.
Air Spring & Volume Spacers
The Yeti SB130 uses a 210 x 52.5mm shock or a 210 x 55mm shock for the Lunch Ride.
The spec’d Fox Float Factory X is new for 2022 with improvements from the previous DPX2. Enough shock for the bigger stuff while poppy on your trail adventures.
SAG is adjusted by PSI – typically Enduro riding styles gravitate to 25-30% sag. This would measure about 17mm for a plush setup.
Volume spacing provides fine tuning options to support the air spring.
By adding volume spacers, thus reducing the volume, you increase the air spring’s ramp rate for improved bottom out support and pop.
Conversely removing volume spacers produces a more linear feel as the air has more volume during shock compression per mm of travel.
Do not install more volume spacers than the FOX advises. Installing more than the maximum volume spacers will result in product damage and potential for injuries, etc.
FOX Performance Float X Rebound Control
The FOX Performance Float X provides a low speed rebound control.
As rider ground speeds increase they will allow the rebound to “speed up”.
The higher PSI the more rebound control a rider will need to control the more forceful air spring.
Rebound should be set to allow the suspension to return to neutral before the next terrain feature without being so fast as to “skip” across the trail.
The Float X has 11 clicks of rebound with a wider range than the FOX DPX2.
FOX Factory Float X Compression Controls
The FOX Factory Float X has a Independent firm mode circuit – Clockable 2 position adjuster
This is great for small adjustments on trail.
Low speed compression is controlled with an easy to use dial.
Numbered tool-free 12 position single-turn LSC (Low Speed Compression) adjuster
Learn about suspension setup basics on the following tabs. Each tab has a video with the basics of Air Spring / PSI, Volume Spacers, Compression, Rebound (or watch it all in one place with the final tab).
Each tab has a text section with a bit more in-depth look at the typical MTB suspension settings and how they intertwine.
PSI / Spring Rate
MTB suspension must accommodate a wide range of rider weight. To achieve this nearly all forks and rear shocks use an adjustable air spring.
By varying air pressure riders set a desired sag, or percentage of travel that the bike “sits into” under neutral loading.
Modifying this sag percentage will change small bump compliance as well as bottom out characteristics.
Learning how to Pre-Charge your suspension pump will help you make finite adjustments to sag.
Typically 15% sag is for a firm setup and 20% sag is considered plush.
Air Spring Fine Tuning Control(s): Volume Spacers & Compression
Air springs ramp rate, sometimes called Spring Rate, is based on how air compresses in the containment cylinder. As the air is compressed the PSI increases according to the decreasing volume of the containment. This is done via non-compressible volume spacers in the air chamber.
Hydraulic damping assists air spring providing support in mid-stroke and bottom out.
Opposing Control: Rebound.
Higher spring rate will drive the suspension back to neutral with more force than a lower spring rate. To keep the bike from skipping across trail rebound damping is utilized.
As suspension compresses (travel reduces) a piston moves closer to the end of a sealed container. By decreasing the volume of the container the PSI pushing back on the piston is increased.
By adding or removing non-compressible volume spacers riders modify the air spring’s ramp rate which directly changes the amount of support and bottom out feel of the fork or shock.
By removing volume spacers a rider increases the available volume in the suspension. The larger volume compresses less per mm of travel resulting in a lower PSI per mm of travel. This creates less support and is utilizes more travel.
Adding volume spacers decreases the available volume. With less air volume the PSI per mm of travel increases providing more support and greater resistance to bottom out.
Opposing Control: Rebound.
Rebound may need to be adjusted for volume tuning depending on how drastic of a PSI change is being tuned in or out of the suspension.
“Helping” Control: Compression.
Compression provides additional support and bottom out resistance.
Compression controls provide damping to slow suspension travel as a load is applied and the suspension is compressed. (easy one right?)
When riders have found sag and volume spacing preferences compression controls provide minute adjustments to dial in performance. Adding compression provides more support allowing the suspension to ride taller in its travel which is important when dialing in a bike’s personality in corners, etc.
With too little compression a bike will sit deep in the travel. This compromises cornering and braking force resistance. Headtube angle, bottom bracket height, front to rear weight bias, etc are modified as a bike goes through its travel. Maintaining control of the use of travel is paramount for good performance.
Since compression hydraulically slows the suspension’s use of travel it therefor lowers the air spring’s PSI. Properly setting compression controls will help ease the load on the rebound system by controlling the air spring’s push back onto the rebound circuit.
Too much compression will cause a bike to feel harsh and not use appropriate amounts of travel.
Generally, compression settings are fine tuned after sag and volume spacing have riders “in the ballpark.”
Low speed compression controls mid-stroke as well as support in cornering and against brake dive.
High speed compression helps with bottom out and high shaft speed inputs.
3 positions switches are a type of compression circuit with Open the most plush, Mid providing some additional support and Firm for climbing. If you climb in firm remember to put it back to plush for the downhill or you’re in for a potentially rough ride.
Rebound damping controls a suspension’s shaft speed returning to a neutral position. Or, how fast the air spring pushes back as the load changes.
More rebound damping slows the suspension by decreasing the amount of fluid allowed to pass through the hydraulic design.
Less rebound damping allows the suspension to return faster with less hydraulic restriction on the damper.
Rebound setting is based on weight, ground speed, terrain and aggression. Setting the rebound properly means finding the right frequency or feel for your riding.
If your rebound is too fast, or doesn’t have enough clicks of rebound, the bike will tend to skip and suffer poor small bump compliance.
When the rebound is too slow, or you have too many clicks of rebound, the suspension may “pack up” creating a harsh ride as each bump uses progressively more travel forcing the suspension deeper into the travel, which will have higher spring rates.
Opposing: Air Spring PSI / Spring Rate.
“Helping” Control: Low & High Speed Rebound.
Some suspension is designed with 2 rebound circuits. The High Speed Rebound circuit is designed to provide additional control resisting increased PSI late in suspension travel.
Typically High Speed Rebound settings are used as the Low Speed Rebound controls edge towards closed. Example: you might not use any clicks of High Speed Rebound until you reach “X” clicks on the low speed.
Yeti SB130 Frame – MSRP $3,900
Available in standard or Lunch Ride rear shock configuration.
note: supply chain issues may result in substitutions for similar parts at Yeti’s discretion.
Popular Upgrades to the Yeti SB130 Complete
There are a variety of popular upgrades or part swaps on Yeti complete bikes. Flip through the tabs below to explore some of the most popular including Brakes, Tires, Chain Guides and Frame Protection.
Along with tires the most common upgrade or swap to a stock Yeti build is brakes.
Brakes are extremely important to your bike’s personality as well as your confidence on trail.
Finding brakes with the right modulation and power for your riding style allows you to further fine tune performance with rotor size.
Brake modulation is how the lever position relates to the amount of power at the caliper.
Brands like Magura and Hope offer great modulation. A slight pull on the lever will produce less pressure at the caliper and increases as lever throw continues. Magura riders can fine tune this even further with a variety of short or long brake levers to further modify the leverage ratio. In fact, Magura offers brake levers with adjustable modulation!
Shimano brakes have less modulation and the power tends to “come on” quicker. This isn’t necessarily good or bad – it’s just a personality.
Magura and Shimano offer similar levels of total power differing in personality more on modulation than max power or feel.
Hope brakes have a little less “bite” at full power but most riders are able to fine tune this by running a slightly larger rotor to increase both leverage and heat capacity.
Pricing / Value
Interested in updating the brakes but on a tight budget? Check out the Magura MT5. In many cases it’s available as a No-Cost upgrade. Cost conscious yes, light on performance or service life? Not a chance. The MT5 brake is the most popular offering here at BikeCo.com
Popular MTB Tire Pairings
Let’s break this down into a couple sections: Tread and Sidewall Pairings.
Ultimate grip, ready to chew into any descent.
Assegai front, Assegai rear
Great front grip with a bit faster rolling rear tire for acceleration / climbing.
Assegai front, Minion DHR II (or DHF) rear
Most popular of aggressive setups.
Great front grip with a fast rolling rear.
Assegai front, Aggressor rear
Not as common
Great grip, with an open, medium height rear
Assegai front, Dissector rear
Not very common, but growing in popularity. The Dissector is a bit of an acquired taste locally with its shorter lugs being good for fast acceleration. Maxxis’ Dissector features larger gaps at a similar lug height to the Aggressor. The larger gaps are beneficially in looser conditions that require tires to “funnel” more dirt.
Moderately Aggressive Setups:
Proven, balanced, popular.
Minion DHF front, Minion DHR II rear
Very popular setup.
DHF front and rear or DHR II front and rear are both viable, the DHF tends to feel like the faster combo.
Fast, fun, great for loose over hard.
Minion DHF front, Aggressor rear
Another popular setup. As dirt conditions improve over the winter this is often a go replacing a Minion rear.
Minion DHF front, Dissector rear
Not seen often as the DHF is a tall lug with tightly spaced cornering lugs while the Dissector features shorter more spaced lugs, particularly along the cornering lugs.
Dissector front, Dissector rear
For riders who need the lug spacing increased for dirt conditions but don’t need lug height.
Not seen often, although in loamy conditions this would be a fast rolling setup where riders can trust dirt to help make up for the corner lug spacing.
Fast Rolling Setups:
Aggressor front, Aggressor rear
The Aggressor is a fast rolling tire with good cornering capacity. However the relatively large transition gap may create a front tire prone to slide until the cornering lugs engage.
Rekon front, Rekon Rear
If you’re looking for fast rolling the tightly spaced and low height lugs on the Rekon are hard to beat. The Rekon as a rear tire creates interesting match up issues for the front, but if you’re riding in conditions that the Rekon is comfortable it’s a ridable XC / Trail front tire.
Minion DHF front, Rekon Rear
This is going to be a more confident setup with a more aggressive front tire providing cornering power. The Minion DHF is a slower rolling option, but, as a front tire that’s not as much of a penalty. The tightly packed cornering lugs will better compliment the Rekon than say a lower lug option like the Dissector that has greater lug spacing.
Want to learn more about tires? Check out more about sidewall, tread pattern, cornering lugs, compounds and more (opens in new window)
One of the most common upgrades to a trail or enduro bike is adding a chain guide.
A variety of options are available depending on your riding needs.
The Wolf Tooth Gnarwolf is a great upper guide as is the OneUp option.
OneUp goes a step further with the Guide + Bash or, for riders who don’t need or want the upper guide, simply a lower bash to protect the chain ring and bottom bracket area.
The lower bash only is a popular option with oval chain ring setups that can be complex to pair with upper guides.
RideWrap Frame Protection
A popular upgrade for any mountain bike, we offer two options of RideWrap Frame protection.
The RideWrap Tailored Kit covers the majority of your frame based on individual model size and shape. This is a $95.00 addition. We will install the Tailored kit for an additional $250.00 labor at time of initial build.
RideWrap’s Covered Kit protects the high wear areas such as downtube, top tube, etc. Custom trimming of the stock Covered Kit helps with fitment depending on model and size. The Covered Kit is $65.00 and installation is $150.00 at time of build.
Installing RideWrap isn’t particularly hard – but it is time consuming. Thinking about doing the labor yourself? Awesome! Check out a quick video on the installation process below.
Yeti SB130 Sizing
Sizing your mountain bike involves balancing your height while taking into account torso length (or conversely, leg / arm length). Riders with longer legs and arms will often upsize and possibly run a shorter dropper seatpost or slightly lower cockpit setup. Riders with long torsos for their height (or, shorter legs) may tend to go slightly smaller on frame size if they’re in the middle.
Questions on frame size? It’s not surprising – our team can help you define the right size for your build, terrain and aspirations.
Yeti Factory Sizing
Small: 5′ 1″ – 5′ 7″
Medium: 5′ 5″ – 5′ 11″
Large: 5′ 10″ – 6′ 3″
X-Large: 6′ 1″ – 6′ 7″
Compare Yeti SB130 Geometry
Using this form you can easily compare bottom bracket height, wheelbase, reach and stack between various sizes and models.
Data is displayed above selections, under the overlay graphic.