The Bike Company More Than Social

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More Than Social

Want to learn more about the content on TheBikeCompany  social media posts?  Here BikeCo’s More than Social page for special offers as well as extra details on our images or videos.

All without your phone listening to you and producing the wacky “Leer Jet to Iowa” ad suggestions! (true story)

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10/8/21 Launching More Than Social!

More Than Social Starting Image of Chain Guide

Welcome to BikeCo’s More Than Social. We hope you enjoy some additional candor, insight, specials and more.

This idea came about when we were chatting about Sea Odder and someone asked if I missed being there. Well, I don’t. I mean, I miss watching the Slalom Racing for sure and seeing some of our old friends (and their dogs, let’s be honest). But other than that – nah. Joe travels the world with Cody Kelley so we’ve seen the real deal products for next year already (and it seems like the vendors displaying should be CNC machine makers or air shipping freight carriers right?)

Somehow the conversation shifted to how “social” might not be my thing (totally the guy in the back looking for the first chance to leave with the least amount of people seeing me), which shifted to Social Media is kinda a necessary evil. But, what if we could provide our clients more? Well we can and it’s here. So every now then remember to stop by this page for more than what we’ll share “socially”.

Where I might be a lousy BBQ guest I think BikeCo is unbeatable as a professional resource where we’re here to help you with all things MTB!

So what do you see in the image?

1-  Launch the More Than Social page (good to have reminders right?)

2 – The OneUp Top Guide with Bash is a great deal at $79.50 while including all the bits you’ll need no matter the chain ring size you run. ISCG05 is the common mounting style and depending on your chain ring / crank configuration you “may” be able to install it without removing the cranks. Be ready to remove the cranks though it can be a lot easier.

3-  My favorite BikeCo logo in a long time. This drive has gigs and gigs of our images from the years. I almost hate to open it because I end up time travelling for a while through them.

4-  Upcoming feature on PressFit BB installation – I run the SRAM DUB bb on my SB130.

5-  A little less plastic in the world, I use pencils.

King Hub adjustment tip & and some definition of details in pic

Allen Wrench Tip Adjusting King Hubs loosen Brake Bolt

While you don’t have to do it often, when new or after a rebuild it is common to need to adjust your King hubs. This is easiest with the hub in the bike as you can quickly feel when the lateral “click” has been eliminated without needlessly overtightening the system.

A quick trick is to loosen the rotor bolt to ensure a confident fit on your small allen wrench. This allows a proper grip between the tool and fastener with the least likelihood of stripping the fastener.

More than Social: or, what else you see in this image!

This is my personal bike and you’ll note a couple things if you look closely.

First, you’ll see it’s not titanium hardware. First I don’t think saving that little bit of weight has a value to me. Second, and it’s been A LONG time since I’ve stripped or broke a rotor bolt, BUT if you do removing titanium hardware is an absolute bitch to do. On larger hardware my opinion starts to shift at some point due to weight and the less likelihood of stripping – but on small fasteners I’ll take the stock offerings thanks.

Surface rust on a rotor? Yup. Couple things here. First I live coastal and the extra salt in the air is hard on a lot of things. Keeping the bike clean helps minimize the extra wear, which is important on nipples in particular. I don’t really spend a lot of time “washing” rotors other than a quick spray off now and then. I run Magura HC rotors which are published to be made of x30cr12 steel. With web scraping I’m not 100% sure it’s x30 or if that is another name for some variant of steel. There is an interesting article on 3CR12 here comparing some of its properties compared to a more conventional 304 stainless. Another interesting look is on the D30CR13 grade here : Basically the 30 refers to the Carbon composition and the 13 Chromium.  Point is, the rotors are made of a steel with some stainless properties without being as “soft” as the stainless you might think about on your sink or refrigerator. Spec’ing a rotor’s material balances weight, specific heat, heat transfer, wear, friction coefficient, etc, etc. 2 piece rotors often use something like the x30cr12 for the contact radius and an aluminum center section. The goal of this is to increase the mass of metal working as a heat sink transferring momentum to heat to slow your bike. Aluminum takes on heat quickly and is light weight which makes it a good heat sink material. It doesn’t not hold up to stresses required of the contact surface though.

180 rotors. I like to use my rear brake in particular to help steer or adjust the bike’s attitude. Pairing the slightly smaller 180mm rotor with the Magura modulation allows plenty of stopping power with a loss of subtle feel.

Third: DT Swiss spokes. No one beats DT Swiss’s attention to detail across production runs. There are more expensive spokes. There are bladed spokes (I only see those as stress risers off-road where the theoretical aero advantage is pretty much just that, theoretical). But for my money, and more importantly my on trail experience, I count on DT Swiss double butted spokes. DT’s processes and QC are second to none producing a predictable, quality finished product.

Titanium eeWing Cranks and Tita, err Polished Aluminum Oval Chain Ring

Cane Creek eeWings with Absolute Black Polished Chain Ring

I have a passion for metal fabrication. And I work hard to use the least amount of plastic and carbon as I can. So, it’s only natural that I would be in love with the Cane Creek Titanium eeWings cranks right? Light and stiff with incredible attention to detail.

Pair those with the Absolute Black Polished, and no it’s not technically named Polished they call it Titanium – but since it’s an aluminum ring naming the color Titanium seems ultra confusing. So, Polished. It’s polished. But it does match that titanium crank real well doesn’t it?

Using the right fixative on the chain ring and crank mounting surface will help increase the service interval providing quiet performance.

Product Featured: Cane Creek eeWings with Absolute Black Polished Chain Ring

Rim Tape Application & 30mm Internal rims from RideFast

Installing Stan's Rim Tape

There’s a couple things you’ll see on this image.

First: while I had Tracy exaggerate the stance a bit, a friend was getting the Indian Tattoo and it reminded me of it, when installing rim tape you need to stretch the tape for proper adhesion. Rim tape isn’t super “sticky” per se and requires the stretch to generate “grab”.

Second is the RideFast LocoMoto rim. A 30mm internal aluminum rim the LocoMoto provides a good tire profile allowing for cornering lugs to engage even at high lean angles. The wider rim options tend to stretch the cornering lugs more vertical which means riders cornering with high lean angles can ride “past” the cornering lugs compromising traction. Conversely the narrower rim provides less volume requiring higher for support compared to a wider, say 35mm option.

RideFast LocoMoto Rim Tire Profile
RideFast LocoMoto rim with CushCore Valve Stem

Product Featured: Stan’s Rim Tape, CushCore Rim Protection, 30mm internal RideFast LocoMoto Rim laced to Industry Nine hubs with DT Swiss Spokes

Wolf Tooth ReMote Light Action: leverage for comfort

Wolf Tooth Remote

Wolf Tooth’s Light Action ReMote is my favorite option. The longer lever increases, well, the leverage which means it takes less power to operate your adjustable seatposts. I have hand issues which mean anything I can do to lower the pressure through my fingers or palms is worth looking at. Nearly all cable driven posts can mix or match their remotes.

Product Featured: Wolf Tooth Light Action ReMotes Available in a variety of limited edition colors.

Electric Shifting & Lightning: SRAM AXS wireless drivetrain kit

SRAM AXS Kit image over Lightning Image

Frankly I just wanted to use some of my lightning photos and thought, what about SRAM AXS upgrade kits? These are one of the most popular upgrade to both completes as well as existing bikes.

We had a couple cool storms at the end of summer / early fall: an hour or so of dry lightning followed by rain. A bit different than what coastal SoCal tends to have. Enjoy some other shots from the backyard.

Lightning in San Diego Late Summer / Early Fall 2021. ©2021 nate collins nate(at)
Product Featured: More Than Social
The Bike Company More Than Social

We hope you enjoyed scrolling through and learning a bit more about the content here on BikeCo’s More Than Social page.

Questions? Our staff is available to help you dial in your bike with The Best in MTB.

Bonus: Social Media Post with a Point

RaceFace Declines InterBike

Seriously one of my all-time favorite social media posts. From 2016 and I still have a screenshot of it on my phone. Interbike had become such a huge waste of time that less and less real business was accomplished and it was nice to see it wasn’t just my opinion as companies pulled stakes and went different ways.

Navigating 2022 MTB Products

Navigating 2022 MTB Products with

Navigating 2022 MTB Products and Getting the Most of Your Current Setup

We’re sure you’ve heard all about manufacturing, shipping, product sitting at customs, etc, etc, etc. Well, let’s look at some of the realities and solution of 2022 MTB Products to help keep you on trail, riding your bike and stoked.

We can break it down into a couple areas that affect the typical rider.

Product availability and how to stretch the service life of your existing parts.

Without writing a thesis on the product availability issues I’m going to try to break it down into the basics of what we see in the market and how its changing product availability and purchasing.

Ibis Exie Frame Detail Made in USA branding

New is still New! Ibis launched the USA made Exie for 2022

Bikes & Bits

2022 MTB Bikes

The pandemic’s rush on sporting goods doesn’t really affect bikes in the tiers that works. Sport to pro race level bike sales have continued to grow over the years, but not at the explosive, and frankly unmaintainable, rates that say kid bike sales have exploded during the pandemic.

So why the delays and wait times on bikes at our level? Manufacturing slow downs from staffing legislation both domestically as well as overseas have had a big impact. Shipping and customs have been another choke point for product. (A lot of our local trails overlook the Pacific and the amount of ships sitting waiting to be unloaded is a literally staggering thing to see)

Brands have been forced to really look at what can be produced and in what windows. In order to protect their markets, as well as their dealer markets, most bike brands have gone to allocation models providing dealers access to a specific amount of goods per timeframe.

How does the allocation model protect the market? Well, its based on previous sales levels so retailers are able to at least maintain during this market transition until we get back to the old normal or define the new normal. It also keeps a single entity from putting together orders of scale that would push the quantity of dealers down which would dramatically affect the manufacturer’s market equity having “all the eggs in one basket” so to speak.

Some manufacturers have set exact size / color / build options and quantities that retailers will have access to. Others have an allocated quantity of availability and the dealer can pre-order size / color / build or frame options.

At BikeCo we’ve built out our website to show 3 levels of bike and frame availability to help clients understand ETAs. Under the Bikes & Frames menu we have an In-Bound and In-Stock option.

On this page there are listings for In-Stock products (pretty self-explanatory), In-Production and In-Bound bikes and frames.

In-Production product has been acknowledged as received by either the manufacturer or BikeCo and is in the process of build up or shipment. This is fairly imminent product.

In-Bound product is part of the next allocation window and has been assigned some details depending on vendor requirements and is due reasonably soon.

As products are pre-sold they are removed from the categories in pretty close to real time, so this is a fairly accurate portrait of product availability windows.

You can call, email, chat or use a contact form for more details and to secure products.

Available In-Stock, In-Production and In-Bound products are available with typical deposit requirements. If you’re interested in product that doesn’t show In-Stock, In-Production or In-Bound a pre-deposit option is available to secure a waiting list position for the next allocation. Pre-deposits are minimal deposits on product we have reasonable belief we will have access to (ie, we won’t be taking deposits for tricycles, cargo bikes or things we know we won’t have access to). Chat with our team for details on this. Shop In-Bound & In-Stock Bikes and Frames here.

SRAM 12sp Eagle XX1 Chains: Available in Black, Rainbow, Gold & Copper to add some bling to your bike

2022 MTB Bits

Delayed, but available. That’s been the theme so far. Our purchasing team has stayed ahead of the curve and while it’s not the “order on Tuesday deliver on Friday” model anymore typically we’ve been able to keep a reasonable stock of the right products available.

What’s not in-stock is likely on its way. Our website’s inventory is updated daily to provide local and web clients access to the best parts. Don’t see what you need? Contact our team and we’ll get you the details or other options available.

As of now we haven’t seen the supply chain grind to a stop at our tier of product like you may have heard about from lower end products, etc. The sport to pro race level product has a handful of advantages that have helped keep it in production and inbound.

First, while the margins are lower than the kid or beach cruiser bits the overall value is higher. So in the same shipping space your GX, XO1, XX1 (or equivalent) products will generate more cashflow for manufacturers.

Second, sport to pro race level bikes really do create a trickle down in brand acknowledgement so there has been a commitment to keep the eye candy products coming in.

Toilet Paper Hoarding?

Well, I never was the one having to move my car out of the garage to make room for the pallet of paper goods. That said, I do have a couple bits in my toolbox in case I needed them in couple week window that might be a dry spell for product.

In my “shit happens” kit I have 2 pairs of brake pads, a chain and an old front tire. Car still fits in the garage…

Brake pads can be contaminated in odd and annoying ways so it’s nice to have access to a fresh pair.

The chain gives me the ability to either replace my current chain at about 50% wear, while the cassette and chain ring are still viable and performance will be good.

I keep an old front tire around, not really because tires are hard to get but in case I need it before a last minute adventure when I can’t get to the shop.

These bits have been in my toolbox pre-pandemic and will stay in there post pandemic too.

I’ve been watching availability from vendors and most bits have had some availability or options available.

Let’s say I need a cassette – well, that might have some availability issues and could be a couple weeks out. But, most cassette issues aren’t a catastrophic failure (I’ve never seen one like break in half). So if I stay ahead of the wear rate I can pre-order the bits I’ll need a few weeks out for a drivetrain replacement. If I bend or break a tooth you can bend it back or file it down. If it’s in one of the smaller gears more dependent on each tooth you might skip over that cog when putting the power down. Long and short, there are ways around most issues.

So how can you get the most service life out of your existing bits?

Popular Maxxis MTB Sidewall Protection Options EXO EXO+ DD

The right sidewall will help you balance damping (increased plushness across small bumps), support (lower PSI for better grip and tire shape), as well as help keep your rims off terrain!

Maintenance (and non-maintenance) to Extend Service Life

Let’s keep you on the trail with your existing kit as long as possible. Here are some tips that we use to keep our bikes running well deep into service life cycles.


A clean bike tends to be a happier bike.

Before each ride wipe the fork, rear shock and adjustable seatpost shafts. This will minimize debris into the seals, foam rings and lube oil which will extend performance.

Wipe your chain, chain ring, derailleur pulley wheels and cassette to keep dirt to a minimum.

An occasional bike wash helps keep dirt and debris away from your suspension pivots.

But, Not TOO Clean

Aggressively over washing your bike will displace bearing lubricants leading to metal on metal contact and premature wear. Be wary when washing your bike not to spray directly into bearing access, etc.

I used to take my drivetrain apart and soak it in degreaser. Looking back, if anything, it might have lead to premature wear. It certainly didn’t extend the life of anything in my opinion. I would make a case that its hard to get the degreaser back out of the areas which will require lubrication. Maybe it was just an excuse to have some garage time alone…

I’ve never been one for the carbon fiber wonder spray, you know that restores that shine your bike probably never really had if its matte anyhow? Well, if you’re into it just be aware when you put it on that it’s likely to contaminate brake pads and rotors. If I was going to use it I would remove the wheels and put them a distance away to protect the rotors. I would spray the fluid onto a rag and wipe it on to avoid overspray on my brakes and pads.


Before each ride use the appropriate chain lube for your riding. We’ve touched on this before and you can read more here – but the jist is this: not enough lube expedites chain wear, which increases the rate of stretch, which hammer forms chain ring and cassette teeth. Use a lube for conditions – a wet lube in dry conditions is likely to attract and hold more debris than a lube for drier conditions.

I also lube my fork, rear shock and adjustable seatpost shafts now and then. There are a variety of lubes available for this – a little dab about once a month will help keep the suspension feeling fresh. Along these lines – occasionally burping your fork lowers, either with the modern burp valves or using a zip tie will minimize gulped air buildup and the negative spring effect which tends to make a fork feel harsh.

Other Odds & Ends

Bolt Checks: a loose bike is wearing out bits faster than it should. A quick review of your fasteners can help keep your bike on trail longer.

Suspension Setup Checks: you don’t need to check your fork or shock’s PSI daily, or weekly, hell I don’t check mine even monthly with a gauge. I do take a look at the sag when I jump on the bike and if it’s notably off I’ll put a gauge on it and correct it. The air springs on your bike are relatively low volume and susceptible to changes based on altitude, heat, etc. Make sure to precharge your pump when you measure the PSI or I can assure you you’re going to “find it low”… Running suspension a bit too plush typically won’t hurt the bike, but it is likely to affect your opinion of how the bike is riding and your enjoyment. Put a premium on your enjoyment and keep an eye on your setup.

Tire PSI, Sidewall & Rim Protection: even after all the years in the industry rebuilding a wheel is outside my scope. So, a folded wheel means I’m not riding until I get one of the guys to fix it. That’s not great.

Keeping an appropriate PSI for your size, terrain, ground speed and style will help keep your rims off those sharp lips that want to eat up your rim and spokes.

Riding the right sidewall technologies will go a long way to keeping an air gap between rim and terrain. The right rim protection is even more insurance.

Shifting: Avoid dump shifting! Just because “you can” push and dump a fistful of gears doesn’t mean it’s a good plan… Check out the video below for details.


Need more details? We’d love to hear from you. Reach out to the team and we will dial you in the with the best products and service in MTB.

How-To Videos & Links:

Click through the tabs below to see a variety of how-to videos and find links to other blogs on below the videos!

Click through the tabs to see some of our How-To videos that will help you keep your bike on trail longer.

Links to more MTB Tips & Tricks

Check out some of our favorite Tips & Tricks for the Home Mechanic under the Content menu

MTB Bolt Checks – Simple but Critical To Your Safety

importance of mountain bike bolt checks

Chain Lube Best Practices. Its that important.

MTB Pre-Ride Chain Clean & Lube Best Practice

Pre-Ride Cleaning & Lube

chain lube video blog image

Basic Bike Wash Tips & Tricks

BikeCo Tips and Tricks Bike Wash Blog Title Image 3

Four Ways to Improve Chain, Cassette & Chain Ring Service Life

Chain Stretch Explained

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Adjustable Travel on Dropper Posts

Adjustable Travel on Dropper Seatposts OneUp & PNW

Adjustable Travel on Dropper Posts

Fine tune your MTB fit with these MTB  seatposts featuring adjustable travel on dropper posts.

Adjusting adjustable travel? Isn’t that like a double negative? No, not really.

For riders who are looking for the maximum travel on their dropper post the adjustable sizing from OneUp Components and PNW provides a wide range of fit options.

Your adjustable post fit is based on your leg length and frame size. While many riders are content running a size that will have the seatpost collar a touch above the frame collar others want all they can get.

If you’re one of those riders a post with travel adjustment is what you’re looking for.

You can purchase a slightly longer travel post than would normally fit and shim down the travel slightly. (we touch on sizing adjustable posts here)

So why not just stop the post where you want it? Well, most riders want the seatpost to sit at full XC pedaling position so they can quickly get back on the power. Having to adjust it each time is slower and will result in different lengths almost every time. (I’ve seen a DIY “travel stop” with a cable to the saddle – but I’m not sure I’d be looking for another cable looped trying to catch my legs, pants, trees, branches, whatever while I’m descending…)

OneUp Dropper V2

One of the most popular adjustable posts thanks to its compact total size combined with long travel the OneUp Dropper V2 features a toolless travel adjustment.

Watch the video to understand how to quickly adjust your OneUp Dropper V2 travel with the provided dowel spacers.

OneUp Dropper V2 Travel Adjustment

Adjusting the travel on your OneUp Dropper V2 is quick and easy.

First loosen the collar. Typically you can do this with your hands, although sometimes a soft strap wrench is needed to get the collar free.

You’ll need to bump the travel, in the video I do it on the post – it’s much easier with a remote installed, to free the white retainer.

Once the collar and the retainer are out of the way you install the desired amount of spacers for the proper travel adjustment in the three channels around the dropper post shaft.

Ensure that you have the same amount in all three channels before continuing.

Similar to removing the retainer a bump down in travel will help reseat the retainer in place.

Tighten the collar appropriately and test the function.

PNW Loam & Rainier Gen 3 RAD Seatposts

PNW posts are made to handle the rigors of the Pacific North West – often wet and muddy. The Rainier in particular is designed to compensate for these factors. Both the Loam and Rainier offer toolless adjustable travel to fine tune fit.

Watch the video to understand how to quickly adjust PNW Seatpost Travel.

How To Adjust PNW RAD Seatpost Travel

The PNW Rainer and Loam seatposts feature toolless travel adjustment. Adjusting seatpost top out allows riders to maximize their total seatpost travel with the seatpost installed as deep in the frame as possible.

Start by lowering the seatpost from full extension, but not so low that you can’t loosen the collar and move the adjuster. About halfway is fine.

Loosen the collar. Typically you can do this by hand, but a soft strap wrench might be needed to get it moving.

Carefully move the collar up the seatpost shaft. Do not scratch the seatpost shaft or you’re likely to have issues with the internals seals, etc.

Rotate the seatpost to expose the arc allowing you to get under the lip of the plastic adjuster. Pull the adjuster up to allow it to rotate.

Realign the adjuster’s arrow to the number corresponding to the amount of travel you’d like to limit.

Tighten the seat collar and check the post’s function.

Questions on which adjustable post is best for you? No problem, our team has you covered.

Call, email, chat or fill out the form below for more details!

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Top Eight MTB Flat Pedals

Top Eight MTB Flat Pedals

Top Eight MTB Flat Pedals

At we’re often asked what our favorite products are. It’s a bit of a loaded question because different riding styles prioritize different features. But when it comes to flat pedals, or platform pedals we can put together a list of our top eight mtb flat pedals – but you’ll have to look at the factors and decide which is the best for your use!

To begin are you a rider who is testing the flat pedal waters or are you committed to platform pedals?

If you’re testing the waters there are great composite pedal options that are cost conscious while providing a variety of colors to highlight your build. Composite pedals can be slightly lighter; however they tend to weigh in pretty close as the composite generally requires a taller pedal than aluminum for support. Most MTB composite pedals will feature pins similar to the aluminum offerings – these aren’t your barefoot beach cruiser pedals…

Riders that will be riding mtb flat pedals for some time tend to gravitate to the aluminum options. As mentioned above the aluminum pedals can be thinner based on material properties. This allows extra clearance as well as slightly lowers your center of gravity by sitting lower over the pedal spindle.

Another aspect to consider is shoe size. While you’ll find most quality platform pedals are somewhat similar in size there are variations. It’s worth a consideration particularly if you’re on one side of the shoe size scale.

On a side note, whether you ride clipless or flats proper cornering footwork is important. When you turn left you have your right foot down, and vice versa. Riders getting used to flat pedals who forget this often find the wider flat pedal can contact the ground, like a peg on a motorcycle, and stick or slide. I’ve seldom had it happen on the trail, but occasionally I’ve been on the road or bike path and turned my brain off ending up in a quick pedal slide. If it slides and you don’t panic it’s pretty easy to ride out of. If it sticks you need to act quicker.

Want to compare flat pedal dimensions? No problem. Scroll through the images below and you can see some of our favorite pedals contact patches highlighted. The black outlines represent the available contact points while the semi-transparent white illustrates the “other side” of the pedal.

So, let’s get down to it.

What are our Top Eight MTB Flat Pedals?

This list isn’t going to be a #1 is the best and #8 is a sacrifice since there are so many personal aspects on pedal selection. But here are, in a somewhat arbitrary order, our favorite platform pedals.

Favorite Aluminum Pedals

Race Face Atlas Pedals

A super popular option for a variety of reasons. Notably the large inboard bearing makes this pedal robust even for heavier riders.

The advertised platform size includes the ramp for the lower side, but it’s close to a 101x104mm useable surface.

The pins are based on bolts which can tend to add a tiny bit of weight to a pedal design, however, they can be easier to remove if substantially damaged.

The Race Face Atlas Pedals are available in a handful of colors: Black, Blue, Green & Red. Some of the earlier favorite colors have been sacrificed for SKU minimization it seems.

HT ANS10 Supreme Pedals

An evolution from earlier HT pedals, the ANS10 Supreme Pedals are slightly thicker than other HT models coming in at a published 16.6mm.

Featuring a familiar HT profile the ANS10 Supreme features bolt pins on the leading and trailing edge with threaded studs on the outboard edge.

HT pedals are available in wide spectrum of colors, however availability post-Covid production / shipping may limit your options depending on time frames.

DMR Vault Pedals

The DMR Vault Pedals have that classic pedal shape. DMR advertises tune-able pins which would allow you to fine tune grip and a bit of shape.

The Vault pedal is designed with a concave footbed for improved contact and feel.

Built with a high load DU bushing and cartridge bearing the Vault Pedal is fully serviceable.

Signature models are available like the popular Lacon Oil-Slick, Brendog Stealth and the Brendog Ice. DMR also offers the Vault in; Sandblast Black, Gloss Black, Copper Orange, Lem Lime & Full Silver.

Deity TMAC Pedals

Tyler McCaul’s signature flat pedals, the Deity TMAC Pedals have a 105×110 contact patch, one of the longer contact patches on our list.

The pedal is 14mm thick and designed with a 2.5mm concave to keep your foot confidently planted in the pedal.

The symmetrical pedal profile provides that large contact patch and allows for weight to be shaved from the vertical blank.

Available in some great polished colorways, our favorites are the Black, Blue, Platinum Silver and Bronze.

OneUp Aluminum Pedals

Like the Race Face Atlas Pedal the OneUp Components Aluminum Pedal features a large inboard bearing for improved service life and performance.

One potential downside to the larger inboard bearing is fit with deep counterbore cranks, ie OneUp advises that the Aluminum Pedals are not compatible with SRAM carbon cranks or many protective crank boots.

The OneUp Pedal has a 115mm usable platform, making it one of the longer contact patch pedals in our selection. This is great for riders with bigger feet. Another interesting aspect of cranks without a lot of fore / aft taper – the spindle sits more “truly centered” rather than slightly forward. It’s probably not enough to notice, but, it’s there.

Best Composite Pedals

What are our go-to composite flat pedals? Check it out.

OneUp Components Comp Pedal

This composite pedal shares the same contact patch design as the OneUp Aluminum Pedals at a cost conscious price point.

Traction is provided with 10 rear loading steel pins per side.

The 115mm long contact patch is great for riders with larger feet.

Available in Black, Red & Orange to highlight your build details.

Crank Brothers Stamp 1, Large Pedals

Like the OneUp Comp Pedal the Crank Brothers Stamp 1 in Large offers a great contact patch for riders with larger feet. This is accomplished with minimal taper from “top” to “bottom”.

The Stamp 1 are one of the thinner composite offerings published at 13mm. 9 adjustable hex traction pins per side for confident grip in any terrain.

Shop Tag Metals T3 Flat Pedals

Tag Metals T3 Pedals

In the MTB world Tag Metals name can seem a bit misleading. Tag Metals produces quality carbon fiber handlebars as well as great composite T3 pedals.

The published dimension is the entire pedal, the contact patch is more like the Race Face Atlas around 105mm give or take (not the 110 published)

Tag Metals T3 Pedals are available in Black, Orange, Red and Gray.

Didn’t see your current or favorite pedals on this list? Well, we are serious about curating product for our clients. We work with the best brands with product riders can trust and vendors can stand behind.

Check out the rest of our flat pedals here.


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Understanding MTB Suspension Controls

Comparing How Pressure on Air Suspension Is Applied

Understanding MTB Suspension Controls

Air Pressure, Volume Spacing, Rebound and Compression work in concert to fine tune you bike’s performance.  Watch the video and read through the blog to be a step closer to understanding MTB Suspension Controls!

Video: MTB Suspension for Beginners

Click through the tabs below to learn more about the specifics of Air Spring Pressure, Volume Spacing, Compression and Rebound tuning.

PSI / Spring Rate

MTB suspension must accommodate a wide range of rider weight. To achieve this nearly all forks and rear shocks use an adjustable air spring.

By varying air pressure riders set a desired sag, or percentage of travel that the bike “sits into” under neutral loading.

Modifying this sag percentage will change small bump compliance as well as bottom out characteristics.

Learning how to Pre-Charge your suspension pump will help you make finite adjustments to sag.

Typically 15% sag is for a firm setup and 20% sag is considered plush.

Fine Tuning Control: Volume Spacing.
Air springs ramp rate, sometimes called Spring Rate, is based on how air compresses in the containment cylinder. As the air is compressed the PSI increases according to the decreasing volume of the containment. This is done via non-compressible volume spacers in the air chamber.

Opposing Control: Rebound.
Higher spring rate will drive the suspension back to neutral with more force than a lower spring rate. To keep the bike from skipping across trail rebound damping is utilized.

“Helping” Control: Compression.
Compression controls provide hydraulic damping to slow the fork through its travel.

Volume Tuning

As suspension compresses (travel reduces) a piston moves closer to the end of a sealed container. By decreasing the volume of the container the PSI pushing back on the piston is increased.

By adding or removing non-compressible volume spacers riders modify the air spring’s ramp rate which directly changes the amount of support and bottom out feel of the fork or shock.

By removing volume spacers a rider increases the available volume in the suspension. The larger volume compresses less per mm of travel resulting in a lower PSI per mm of travel. This creates less support and is utilizes more travel.

Adding volume spacers decreases the available volume. With less air volume the PSI per mm of travel increases providing more support and greater resistance to bottom out.

Opposing Control: Rebound.
Rebound may need to be adjusted for volume tuning depending on how drastic of a PSI change is being tuned in or out of the suspension.

“Helping” Control: Compression.
Compression provides additional support and bottom out resistance.


Compression controls provide damping to slow suspension travel as a load is applied and the suspension is compressed. (easy one right?)

When riders have found sag and volume spacing preferences compression controls provide minute adjustments to dial in performance. Adding compression provides more support allowing the suspension to ride taller in its travel which is important when dialing in a bike’s personality in corners, etc.

With too little compression a bike will sit deep in the travel. This compromises cornering and braking force resistance. Headtube angle, bottom bracket height, front to rear weight bias, etc are modified as a bike goes through its travel. Maintaining control of the use of travel is paramount for good performance.

Since compression hydraulically slows the suspension’s use of travel it therefor lowers the air spring’s PSI. Properly setting compression controls will help ease the load on the rebound system by controlling the air spring’s push back onto the rebound circuit.

Too much compression will cause a bike to feel harsh and not use appropriate amounts of travel.

Generally, compression settings are fine tuned after sag and volume spacing have riders “in the ballpark.”

Low speed compression controls mid-stroke as well as support in cornering and against brake dive.

High speed compression helps with bottom out and high shaft speed inputs.

3 positions switches are a type of compression circuit with Open the most plush, Mid providing some additional support and Firm for climbing. If you climb in firm remember to put it back to plush for the downhill or you’re in for a potentially rough ride.


Rebound damping controls a suspension’s shaft speed returning to a neutral position. Or, how fast the air spring pushes back as the load changes.

More rebound damping slows the suspension by decreasing the amount of fluid allowed to pass through the hydraulic design.

Less rebound damping allows the suspension to return faster with less hydraulic restriction on the damper.

Rebound setting is based on weight, ground speed, terrain and aggression. Setting the rebound properly means finding the right frequency or feel for your riding.

If your rebound is too fast, or doesn’t have enough clicks of rebound, the bike will tend to skip and suffer poor small bump compliance.

When the rebound is too slow, or you have too many clicks of rebound, the suspension may “pack up” creating a harsh ride as each bump uses progressively more travel forcing the suspension deeper into the travel, which will have higher spring rates.

Opposing: Air Spring PSI / Spring Rate.

“Helping” Control: Low & High Speed Rebound.
Some suspension is designed with 2 rebound circuits. The High Speed Rebound circuit is designed to provide additional control resisting increased PSI late in suspension travel. Typically High Speed Rebound settings are used as the Low Speed Rebound controls edge towards closed. Example: you might not use any clicks of High Speed Rebound until you reach “X” clicks on the low speed.

More on Understanding MTB Suspension Controls

While illustrating what started as a real basic, kind of introduction to understanding mtb suspension controls there were some visualizations of “oh, I knew what that felt like, but when I ‘see’ it it makes even more sense”.

Getting a proper suspension setup involves balancing the available adjustments into windows where each characteristic functions. Quality suspension manufacturers tend to have their adjustments in a ballpark for about 140lb to close to 275lb riders.

What this means is that the 20 some clicks aren’t  all “for you” all the time. (which is one of the big benefits of our BikeCo Pro Tunes where we narrow the performance window for your riding style, goals, weight, ground speed etc meaning each click is controlling a smaller performance window giving you more options but more on that another time).

Your needs will dictate a smaller window of adjustment “works” for you. Then you have to find the sweet spot that all of the adjustments are in a functional state.

It’s kind of like a mixing board with a bunch of slider adjustments. There’s settings that produce a great sound – even, balanced. But if you get one of the dials way out of it’s sweet spot you’re going to have to try to use the other controls to compromise the sound (or bike performance in our case) but it’s never going to be that real true, great sound.

Understanding MTB Suspension Dial Comparison

If you want your suspension to work at it’s best you need to identify the “green” zones for your setup and work to keep Air Pressure, Volume Spacing, Compression and Rebound in high functioning areas.

Really the most influential animation in the video, for me at least, was the visualization of when rebound slows the air spring’s return to neutral creating a momentary impact until the forces trying to compress the suspension equalize and overtake the air pressure.

Let’s look at this a bit further.

Simplified Air Spring (eliminating heat) Equation

Pressure A / Volume A = Pressure B / Volume B

The smaller the volume the more the air compresses and pushes back on the walls and piston head.

It doesn’t matter if its your riding weight, an ACME anvil from a cartoon, a tie down strap or a hydraulic circuit that “keeps” the air spring compressed – when the suspension compresses and lowers the volume the PSI rises.

For the following example we’re going to look at too much rebound, or a setup where the rebound is too slow. Mind you this is happening in instants – but it is happening.

The suspension compresses and begins to return for the next feature.

Ideally the system resets with the air spring returning able in a range to support the next input as evenly as possible.

If there is too much rebound dialed in the suspension isn’t going to return to the ideal extension. This does a few things all kind of instantly.

It may change the roll over angle or approach on the next feature. It also may effect the bike’s geometry. This is particularly a bummer in square edge hits that might try to stop the bike while you go flying over the top.

Even in less consequential terrain you lose the suspension’s float momentarily. Since the air spring is being held compressed more than ideal its PSI is higher than ideal. This means when the suspension reengages it might as well be rigid until the forces applied over take the PSI on the piston and allow it to begin to compress.

As an extreme example imagine the difference between punching a padded wall or missing and putting your fist into the block wall behind it. The pad, or air spring, begins to absorb and dissipate that energy so there isn’t the “hard stop”.

This is also the reason you pump the trail when riding. Pushing the bike down and pulling it up give you a secondary, active, suspension system to minimize the shock loads.

Want the worst of all worlds? Set your bike to ride unbalanced on the air spring and then go ride it dead sailor! It’s going to rattle your teeth out, hurt your hands and skip of trail. Exactly the opposite of the balance we’re looking for when understanding MTB suspension controls!

Comparing How Pressure on Air Suspension Is Applied

In the image above we’ve illustrated what we’re using colors to represent loads (or weight, or pressure depending on what makes it easiest for you to understand).

On the left we show a setup with ideal rebound allowing the air spring to extend into a range equal to the next input load. The air spring will absorb the increasing forces from yellow into the orange range.

On the right we show a slow rebound setup. Slower rebound keeps the air spring compressed, lowering the air volume and thus raising the PSI / spring rate.

This means the energy from yellow to orange is forced back onto the rider until the darker orange of the air spring equals the load applied at which point the air spring will begin to carry the load.

This translates as a harsh feeling through the bars or pedals.

Similarly compression settings ideally work in a range with the air spring to allow a comfortable pickup during the suspension travel. If the compression setting is too aggressive the suspension will suddenly come “off” the air spring’s ramp rate and work only off the hydraulic damper.

This creates a harsh ride and sometimes will actually feel quite “notchy” as the suspension transitions from air to damper and back.

All of this circles back to a basic understanding of the ideal ranges of setup and performance and trying to find that sweet spot where the systems are truly working together and helping fine tune performance throughout the travel.

We thank you for the read and hope you took something away that will help you better understand how to dial in your MTB suspension.

We invite you to check out the other content and the best products in MTB here at

BIkeCo clients have access to our team to help them fine tune stock or Pro Tune Suspension.

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Interactive Ramp Rate Comparison with Graph

Ramp Rate Graph Blog

Ramp Rate Graphing Example

To help our clients better understand volume spacing and ramp rate we built an interactive google sheet.

This google sheet may not work with all browsers and navigation – if you find issues please let us know and we can help you navigate as needed.

Ramp Rate Comparison: How It Works

In short, viewers are invited to modify Rider Weight as well as choose Sag and Volume Spacers (the white boxes) for up to three setups. This will produce both a chart of PSI at travel percentage as well as a comparative graph with the three series for review.

Now we don’t claim these numbers are “go-to” for your setup – rather they are a reasonably accurate comparison to help you visualize how you can modify your air suspension. This example allows you to visualize differences modifying Sag % (15, 18 or 20%) and Volume Spacing (0-5).

What you’ll notice is how relatively small variations can make a big difference. Particularly in the 60% to bottom out portion of travel.

We hope the additional understanding of how the air system is actually behaving will help riders better modify setup to hit their goals.

After working with the google sheet you can read more below to better understand what the graph shows and why as well as the formulas and reasoning we’ve used.

NOTE: Mobile Users – most mobile applications will require opening the sheet in Google’s App using the link below (but we suggest you check it out on your computer for full functionality)

Ramp Rate Comparative Graph Google Sheet

More About Ramp Rate Comparison

Did you see how the ramp rates vary depending on setup? Some changes and the series are very close to each other, while other changes make large swings.

That’s why its’ important to have some basic ideas, or access to a team to help you determine what your suspension is actually doing versus what you’d like it to be doing.

Each point on these graphs represents an “instant” as the air suspension is either rebounding to extension or continuing compression based on load. Understanding the ramp rate will help you fine tune suspension, particularly on components without compression controls.

Forks and shocks with compression controls offer another level of performance hydraulically damping (slowing) the shaft input adding resistance with the air spring. Understanding how to setup compression to balance small bump compliance, mid-stroke support and bottom out can make a big difference in the direction your setup takes.

What Does Ramp Rate Change

How much pressure your suspension produces effects support. Without enough support (too low of PSI) the suspension will sit too deep “eating” up more suspension travel then required by the terrain. Too much support tends to produce a harsh ride as the bike skips across trail.

Ramp Rate effects bottom out and total amount of travel used. With too little air pressure to resist the compression riders suffer hard bottom out, excessive dive, etc. Too much pressure will limit amount of available travel. Remember to mentally review your ride when you compare travel – just because you have the travel doesn’t mean you’re always going to use it. Riding in steep terrain or smooth lines often use less travel than say, slamming straight into a curb.

Using this graph you will have an idea of changes available to you with ramp rate. If the bike “is close” minor sag or volume spacing differences may help with the dial in along with using compression controls if available. If you need larger changes this graph can help you visualize directions that will make bigger impacts.

Other Factors on Setup

So you’ve got your sag, volume spacing and compression pretty good, or even really good in portions of the travel. But, you’re still struggling to really get that “dial in”?

There are other factors to consider, and frankly few “magic bullet” options. Let’s look at some of the common culprits.

Poor Small Bump Compliance

Too much air pressure for your ground speeds is a common cause of a bike skipping across the trail. Tip-toeing down trail tends to be hard on suspension as well. Sometimes, as counter intuitive as it may sound, a bit more speed will smooth out your ride.

Remember force is mass times acceleration – so to add some force to drive the suspension speed is your friend.

Other factors to consider include rim and wheel build spec based on your size and ground speeds. Some rims are very stiff and take pretty high forces to be compliant.

Are you a very light rider? Or medium weight and medium ground speed? Having your wheels built to accommodate you will dramatically help with small bump compliance and traction.

Air pressure comes into play on both poor small bump compliance as well as higher speed “shouldering” issues.

Un-Damped Air Springs

Your fork and rear shock have rebound and compression dampers. But, you know what doesn’t? Your tires.

Remember how hard it was to dial in suspension for Plus tire bikes? With such large masses of air the tires became very efficient secondary suspension but without the ability to really be tuned.

Wider rims and higher volume tires, although not the plus size the marketeers all said we’d be running by now – just sayin – sometimes the hype is just hype eh, but wider rims and higher volume tires made this secondary suspension more of a factor.

Luckily riders have access to different sidewalls which help to damp the tire’s air spring. Rubber is an effective vibration isolator and the additional sidewall technologies help control terrain inputs through the wheels and into the suspension.

Setup & Tune

One of the things we pride ourselves on is unmatched after sales service. Helping client’s take their setups from “decent” to “dialed in” is truly gratifying. Is bottom out, ramp rate, rebound, compression and how they interact confusing? No problem. When you purchase a bike, suspension or Pro Tune suspension our team is here to help you. We can walk you through what the concepts mean and help you articulate what’s working well and where adjustments may be needed.

Our Pro Tune Suspension is a popular option for riders of all levels. Taking the industry leading FOX suspension and narrowing the performance window for individual riders based on ground speed, aggression, riding setup, terrain, goals, etc means that every click of compression or rebound has a narrower adjustment window. Each click has more minute adjustment allowing a more precise dial in.

Questions? Call, chat or email our team today!

Formulas and Concepts for Ramp Rate Comparison

Some insight on the concepts and formulas we used to produce this graph.

Suspension setup has a couple quirks that muddy the water conceptually.

We work with PSI values at full extension during setup to achieve a specific sag. At the sag point, where the suspension settles based on weight, the air pressure has increased from the PSI at full extension (the value we read). Using the same air piston size to support a given weight requires a certain pressure is achieved no matter at what point in the sag.

For our example rather than working with the starting PSI (at full extension) we are using a calculation to determine approximate PSI at sag. This calculation is based on rider weight and starting PSI averages between FOX & Yeti’s FOX 38 170mm setup for 18% sag.

Once we have the PSI at 18% sag with 2 volume spacers we are able to extrapolate a variety of different setups using the support PSI in the proper configuration.

These setup numbers are calculated using volume changes as the fork is compressed in ratio with the defined PSI times Volume at defined Sag. This is done with Boyle’s Law of Pressure1 x Volume1 = Pressure2 x Volume2 which becomes Desired PSI = KnownPressure1 x KnownVolume1 / KnownVolume2

Now, these numbers in the real world would be effected by heat and a handful of other variants that aren’t critical to our reference graphs. Since this is a conceptual visualization for teaching a concept our numbers provide reasonable accuracy.

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Yeti SB130 Lunch Ride Custom: Enve, King, Magura

Yeti SB130 Lunch Ride Custom

Yeti SB130 Lunch Ride custom with Enve, King, Magura & More

Since it’s launch the Yeti SB130 has been a bike confident in all terrain. Trail rip after work? Fun bike. Big enduro adventure on the weekend? Ya, that’s what this bike lives for!

This Yeti SB130 Lunch Ride custom features bits from all the leading manufacturers. USA made parts are well represented with ENVE M730 rims and M7 stem as well as Chris King hubs and headset. Magura MT7 Raceline brakes provide great modulation and stopping power. Ergon saddle and Deity grips not only have the right accent colors but provide confident, comfortable options for a wide range of riders.

The SRAM AXS drivetrain provides crisp shifting and clean installation. XX1 10-52t rainbow cassette and chain bring a touch of bling to the black and teal build.


Yeti SB130 Custom SRAM AXS Drivetrain


Cane Creek eeWing cranks have been gaining momentum on bikes at this level. Designed as a titanium alternative to carbon fiber cranks Cane Creek advertises the eeWings as lighter and stiffer than carbon. The titanium fabrication adds a touch of elegance. Small welds remind riders of previous dream bikes when metal builds were more common.

The OneUp Bash and Guide is the perfect accent hue while helping keep the chainring off rocks or logs you’ll encounter ripping down trail.


Magura MT7 Raceline Lever detail


Magura’s HC3 lever provides riders the ultimate adjustability. Easily control reach as well as leverage. One of the best aspects to the adjustments of the HC3 lever is the delineation lines to help you fine tune setup. Magura offers riders the ability to continue to fine tune setup with a range of brake rotors and sizes as well as pad materials with different personalities. Questions on what Magura setup is right for you? Our team of experts is here to help you get the right brake for your riding.


Custom Yeti SB130 Lunch Ride


The lines on the modern Yeti Switch Infinity bikes look fast evening standing still. In a industry that can goes in and out of overly complex shapes Yeti’s straight, no-nonsense tubes – particularly the top tube and parallel seat stay just look so mean!


In the market for a new MTB? Well not only can bring you the best bits on the market we bring unmatched attention to detail before, during and after build. Our after sales service is second to none. Staff devotes time and energy to ensure your new bike dial in is a quick and smooth as possible. Our team is also available to help you fine tune your setup as your riding progresses. From cockpit setup, suspension settings, tire pressures and choices – there are a lot of factors that go into making your MTB work. has all of those factors covered.

Chat with us about a custom, semi-custom, factory build with upgrades or a stock build today!


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Yeti SB140 Mullet: AXS, Hope, Onyx

Yeti SB140 Mullet

Custom Yeti SB140 Mullet with AXS, Hope, Onyx and more

This Yeti SB140 Mullet has slightly less travel than Yeti’s mullet geometry. With a lower 29″ front end the SB140’s on trail performance is much closer to the balance expected in the 27.5″ configuration.

Attention to detail, and a bit of Covid availability compromise are seen tip to tail on this bike.

Yeti SB140 Ron Burgundy Top Tube


The Yeti SB140 Ron (Burgundy) frame really comes alive in natural UV light. With such an original and bold color this build uses shades of gray, black and silver tones for contrast.


Custom color Hope Tech3 V4 Brakes by BikeCo


Whether you’re looking for small subtly or bold colors our Custom Hope Brake Builder allows just the right accents to your build. Hope brakes offer excellent modulation and power.  Adjustable reach and bite point controls are shown here.  This build features Hope to SRAM 1 piece clamps for a clean cockpit setup. SRAM AXS drivetrain provides crisp, reliable shifting without a cable further cleaning the cockpit look.

Somewhat off topic: The pyramid grip surface on the Deity grips reminds me of perspective and light art classes from school…


Absolute Black Oil Slick Oval Chainring


The Absolute Black oval chain ring in Oil Slick / Rainbow, black XX1 AXS chain and titanium Cane Creek eeWings cranks offer nice contract on the drivetrain. A carbon MRP upper guide helps with chain retention in the chunkier terrain.


HT Components T1 pedals


HT Components T1 pedals are extremely popular with Enduro and Trail riders. Available in a variety of colors the T1 pedals tie in well with the medium grays on this build. One trick to the T1 pedals is to run them slightly tighter on the release than you might have run previous pedals. It might seem counter intuitive but running them slightly tighter improves the clip out feel making it easier for many riders.

SB140 Mullet Build by BikeCo

Chris King Dropset


Frames with integrated headsets can still take advantage of the Chris King precision performance. DropSet headsets provide unmatched quality of bearings and a variety of colors to accent your build. The King bearing is slightly taller than the Cane Creek integrated option which leads to this small gap on many frames like the Yeti SB140. This gap doesn’t really effect performance and I consider it akin to a badge of honor to run another American made component on my bike!

This SB140 has 20mm of carbon spacers under the stem. Modern bikes have gone back to a bit taller handlebars for improved performance particularly in steep terrain. When your hands are too low the bike often feels like it is being “pulled” backwards out from underneath you in chutes. Having your hands in the proper power position gives you the leverage to essentially “punch back” when the trail tries to take your bike from you!

This client chose the Industry Nine A318 stem in pink to acknowledge Cancer Awareness. Chromag bars weren’t his first choice, but with availability issues they were the best option with proper rise and a good sweep and carbon layup. More and more manufacturers are catching back up (Shimano is one big exception – but more on that some other time) meaning that Covid Compromise is effecting less and less builds.


Mullet SB140


Another product we’re seeing more and more riders gravitate to are Onyx hubs. Designed for instant engagement and silent freewheeling these hubs are available in a range of colors to accent your build.

The silent hub is much more notably than you might think – when I wheel Onyx bikes out to take pictures there’s always a “what’s missing” feeling until I remember it’s the Onyx hubs… Onyx hubs silent engagement are a touch heavier than other options – but for riders looking to really hear what their tires are doing and what’s around them they’re a cool option.

In the market for a custom bike? Semi-custom? Factory build with upgrades? Or just a stock build? In every case BikeCo is your resource.  We offer the best spec, setup, tune and pricing in MTB. We invite you to chat, email or call our staff today.

See you on the trails!

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Custom Ibis Ripmo: AXS, King, Magura

Custom Ibis Ripmo with SRAM AXS, Chris King and Magura Brakes

Custom Ibis Ripmo: SRAM AXS, Chris King, Magura

Enjoy some shots of this Ibis Ripmo before it heads to it’s new home. This Custom Ibis Ripmo features SRAM AXS, Chris King, Magura brakes and more.

SRAM AXS technology has proven robust and reliable. We’ve put a lot of riders out on the XX1 and X01 setups with great results. Crisp performance, excellent battery life and the clean lines without shifting or adjustable seatpost cables are most often mentioned as favorites with the AXS drivetrain and Reverb AXS seatpost.

RockShox Reverb Controller


The RockShox Reverb AXS controller and Magura MT7 brake could be paired with a Magura specialty mount for an even cleaner look. However, the upside to individual clamp mounts is improved finite adjustability. Which would you choose? (good problems to have either way right?)


RaceFace Kash Money Stem


The RaceFace Kash Money stem is a great colorway to accent a lot of builds. Imagine this stem with the new SRAM copper drivetrain…

Chris King inset headsets reduce load on the frame being a “one and done” product. With simple service your headset will easily last the frame’s service life.

This build features 30mm of  spacers so the rider can dial in the perfect setup. Modern bikes have tended to run taller cockpit setups for improved power transfer particularly in steep chutes.  When your handlebars are too low in steep terrain the bike will feel like it’s trying to “suck” out under you. Having your hands in a proper “power” position gives you the leverage to aggressively push through the steeps.

Handbuilt wheels by


Ibis S35 Carbon rims laced to Chris King hubs


Ibis S35 carbon rims are a popular option for riders looking for a bit more compliance in their carbon hoops. Definitely not “noodle-y” the Ibis rims allow lighter riders or those without the ground speeds for ultra rigid options to improve small bump compliance and tire tracking. The Ibis’ rims are so popular it’s common to see them on other frame manufactures builds as well! On this build the Ibis rims are laced to Chris King hubs with DT Swiss Competition spokes.


Magura MT7 4 piston caliper detail


Magura brakes provide riders excellent modulation, power, long service intervals as well as tuneability with a variety of levers, rotors, rotor sizes and pad compounds. The most popular lever for the Magura MT7 brakes is currently the HC3 offering. The Magura HC3 brake lever provides easy leverage ratio as well as fit adjustment. The HC3 lever’s clear adjustment lines give riders a reference point to fine tune performance.

Another popular feature on the Magura brakes are the removable piston accents. Many riders pop these out for a quick spray paint or paint pen customization!


Chris King and SRAM Logos on wheel build


More popular components here at BikeCo. Chris King hubs are made in the USA, provide great engagement and with simple service are essentially lifetime hubs. DT Swiss spokes provide riders the most consistency production run to run. DT’s wire selection and manufacturing mean their spokes are second to none in terms of mechanical performance attributes.  SRAM Eagle cassettes are now available in 10-52t configurations as well as the 10-50t. The difference is the 52t requires the newer derailleur pulleys (which are larger). These are available on all AXS derailleurs as well as the new MAX mechanical derailleurs.


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Peas & Carrots: Custom Mullet Yeti SB165

Custom Mullet Yeti SB165

Enjoy some shots of this custom Mullet Yeti SB165 build by This Yeti Moss Green frame is set off with orange accents from Fox Suspension as well as CushCore valve stems.

Park, big mountain and enduro riding are on the slate for this build. Contact points include Ergon GE1 Evo Factory Grips, Ergon SM Enduro saddle as well as HT Component Pedals.


BikeCo Pro Tune Decals on Fox 38 Fork


The 29″ front wheel provides additional roll over capacity while slightly mellowing the steering input. The smaller, stock, 27.5″ wheel in the rear gives riders more room to maneuver when jumping the bike as well as turns corners more quickly.  The slightly smaller circumference will accelerate more quickly when you jump on the power out of a corner.


Tag Metals MTB Stem and Bar combination


A popular “new” entrant to MTB at this level Tag Metals offer an excellent stem. Light and stiff the T1 stem transfers power well. The T1 Carbon bars are stiff enough to be effective without crossing into the “teeth rattler” realm some carbon bars are known to hit. Shop Handlebars here.

Another popular spec here at The Bike Company are Magura brakes. This bike features the MT7 brakes with HC levers. Magura’s 4 piston brakes allow riders to have both power and modulation. Modulation is defined as how the brake ramps into it’s power. For instance putting a stick in your spokes has a ton of instant stopping power, but, it’s gonna be hard to control. Conversely putting your foot on the back of the wheel (remember no brake bikes as kids?) isn’t going to stop you quick enough. These same issues are prevalent in MTB brakes. Some brakes bring the power on too quickly which can make them hard to control particularly in wet or low traction conditions. Other brakes lack the total power to confidently slow riders down. Magura has spent years dialing in the balance allowing riders to fine tune performance with rotor size and pad compounds. Find Magura Brakes Here.


Magura MT7 with HC Lever

Magura MT7 Caliper on Moss Green Mullet Yeti SB165

Custom Mullet Yeti SB165


HT Components Pedal mounted to RaceFace Next R Carbon Cranks


AE03 EVO+ Stealth pedals give the perfect look with their stealth graphics and black traction pins. RaceFace Next R carbon cranks transfer power to the SRAM drivetrain. Shop flat pedals here.


Thrust Bearing on MTB Coil Shock


The devil’s in the details and here’s a good one… Chat with our team about your next dream bike or dialing in your current rig!


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